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Tarzán, Nemo y Robinson Crusoe | El Mundo de Wayne Tarzán, Nemo y Robinson Crusoe | Punto de encuentro sobre cooperación al desarrollo, conflictos, medio ambiente, cultura, tecnología y economía.
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Otros »Reciclaje 2011 »

Tarzán, Nemo y Robinson Crusoe


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En pleno 2010 Esther y Gerardo nos contaron paso a paso un apasionante viaje bajo el pseudónimo Alpargatenado que también daba título a su blog de viaje. Ahora recuperamos uno de sus últimos capítulos: Ya llegamos a Malasia, en pleno sudeste asiático, con la idea de indagar a fondo las islas Perhentian. Una de mis preocupaciones era que a estas alturas del viaje mi capacidad de asombro estuviera desgastada…o cuanto menos, saturada de tanto uso.

Sin embargo, creo que fue buena idea combinar los destinos buscando siempre el contraste, de hecho, creo que es el secreto para mantener el interés y la sorpresa vivas cuando viajas durante tanto tiempo…eso, y encontrar a un compañero más entusiasta que un niño.

Las islas, principalmente, eran dos: Besar, la grande, y Kecil, la pequeña. Obviaremos el viaje en lancha hasta llegar a ésta última, que pareció que más bien que volábamos en lugar de navegar. Ante nuestros ojos apareció una playa que evocaba las aventuras de Robinson Crusoe, yo nunca había visto nada igual: una balsa de agua turquesa, cristalina, una arena blanca y fina, los cocoteros y al fondo, una espesa jungla que más tarde comprobaríamos cuan impenetrable podía llegar a ser.

Tras unas cuantas vueltas nos decantamos por este lugar que nos encandilo a primera vista, estaba lo suficientemente alejado para encontrar tranquilidad y lo suficientemente cerca para llegar caminando a todos los puntos de la isla, incluido al pueblo de pescadores donde uno se acerca a la realidad de la vida que un día primaba en estos lares antes de la llegada del turismo y desde donde solíamos cruzar en lancha-taxi a la otra isla para bucear. Este medio de transporte era el más utilizado, pues no siempre era fácil hallar un camino entre tanta piedra,tanta agua y tanta jungla.

En cuanto a la jungla que ocupaba la mayor parte de ambas islas, no estaba habitada por grandes fieras sino más bien por reptiles, pájaros, mariposas, arañas y monos. Los reptiles eran una variante del dragón de Komodo, algo más pequeños y más huidizos.

AVENTURAS BAJO EL AGUA

En cuanto al snorkel, era una actividad nueva para mí, unas gafas de bucear pueden convertirse en una nave espacial que te impulsa en un instante a otro universo, y lo más sorprendente es la rapidez con la que puedes entrar y salir de éste con un simple movimiento de cabeza. Dos mundos paralelos transcurren ignorándose separados por la fina superficie del mar. Mirando esa balsa de agua turquesa nadie podría imaginar la inmensa vida que aflora en su interior.

Nada se parece a lo que conoces. Los corales gigantes con sus formas caprichosas hacen las veces de árboles, y como tales, son el sustento del resto de vida que gira a su alrededor. Los peces tropicales, lejos de ser anodinos con escamas grises, están intensamente coloreados y modelados al antojo de algún escultor naif. Tu capacidad de movimiento está limitada por el aire que respiras y por la fuerza del agua sobre tu cuerpo. Tu vocabulario también se encuentra reducido a esta nueva diversidad de seres vivos, y bastamente los clasificas en dos o tres palabras: piedra, coral y pez; solo en contadas ocasiones identificas con mayor precisión uno de esos animales que una tarde al mediodía, abandonándote a la siesta, viste en un documental.

Estas islas son conocidas por las tortugas que las habitan, y que ahora aunque no es época de desovar, con suerte las encuentras buceando en algunos puntos. ¡Nosotros tuvimos esa suerte! De los pececillos solo destacaremos algunos que nos llamaron más la atención como los agujones (belonidae) que son unos diestros y finos espadachines que nadan siempre cerca de la superficie; o los peces payaso, rebautizados como Nemos tras la película de dibujos animados que me formó en el 80% de los conocimientos que tengo sobre el mar, estos andaban siempre escondidos entre los dedos venenosos de las anemonas; una serpiente marina que no supimos identificar; varias mantas raya, unas blancas y otras moteadas con puntos azules y ojos amarillos (Taeniura lymma); los Triggerfish, casi como un globo adornado con tantas aletas como colores, con los morros pintados de rojo sin mucho atino, y que podías escucharlos al morder el coral; los Napoleones, de 1 a 1,5 metros de longitud y con una prominente frente son los auténticos trituradores de coral y marisco y protagonizaron uno de los momentos más mágicos al encontrarnos un banco de 14 de ellos y poderlos seguir durante unos minutos.

Por último, ¡¡¡tiburones!!! Algunas zonas estaban señaladas como shark point. “No son muy peligrosos”-decían- “pero si los ves, no debes seguirlos”. Se trataban de especies pequeñas y otras no tan pequeñas como el black tip, que puede alcanzar metro y medio. Se supone que buceas y al fondo puedes ver pasar alguno…así lo hicimos el día del snorkel trip: hasta cinco vimos. Pero mi primer avistamiento fue algo irrepetible (o al menos eso espero). Contentos y siempre juntos a petición mía, estábamos ensimismados con un lugar llamado coral view: hermosísimo es poco. En esto que me dolía la nariz de tanta gafa al vacío y salí sin avisar a Gerardo porque con la voz gangosa yo y las orejas en el agua él, consideré que sería un numerito innecesario. Con el chip del snorkel desactivado me dirigí a la orilla, cuando de pronto…me encuentro a un tiburón delante de mis narices. Cara a cara busco los rasgos que me confirmen que ese animal de igual anchura y que con una sonrisa poco amistosa, es lo que creo que es y desearía que no fuera. La profundidad en ese momento estimo que no sería superior a dos metros, la distancia entre él y yo, algo así, como de uno… nado apresurada, descoordinada, de medio lado, a cuatro patas pensando que no puede ser cierto: ahora puedo verle “las tres rayas esas que tienen para respirar” y las aletas, es más largo que mis piernas.  Hace un gesto, creo que se gira un poco hacia mí otra vez, sigo pataleando hacia la salida, ya no sé si respiro aire o agua como él… sigue su camino mar adentro… yo no paro de nadar descoordinada con el tubo más rato dentro que fuera. Me parece un siglo, las piernas no sé si me tiemblan o directamente no las siento. Medio ahogada llego a la arena, trato de avisar a Gerardo porque el tiburón va hacia allí. Él no me oye. Pero al fin y al cabo está a más profundidad y con suerte lo verá pasar por debajo, si es que lo ve. Y sí, vio dos.  Salió eufórico. Yo en cambio seguía aterrorizada… no sé si alguien sabrá interpretar los sueños, pero esa noche solo había tiburones en los míos, y me pregunto: “¿soñaría conmigo él también?”

Los viajeros: Esther y Gerardo.

Todo el viaje en:

Al-par-gateando


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